Features

The Holga 120-3D Stereo camera is based on the Holga CFN (Color Flash) body design and takes Holga photography to an all new level of 3D Photography. The Holga 120-3D produces analog stereo images that pop out in true 3-D when looked at through Holga's special viewer. It's a great way to see your images move beyond the two-dimensional confines of paper.

Specifications

• Glass Optical Lens, F/8 60mm
• Leaf Shutter, speed 1/100 sec
• 120 Format Color or Black/ White film
• ASA 100/ISO21 or ASA 400/ISO 27 speed
• Eye level, direct view finder
• Adjustable focusing
• G.N. of Flash: 12(ASA 100/DIN 21,m)*2
• Two AA Batteries required for Flash*2
• Size: 208*103*76mm
• Weight: 360g without batteries

What's in the box
Holga 120-3D Camera x 1pcs

What else?
So what is it? It’s a stereo-camera made out of two Holgas stuck together. Two glass lenses and two colour-wheel flashes… Just like two Holga GCFN side by side, lovely. How does it work? It is based on the concept of visual triangulation, or stereoscopy. Like our own eyes. With our two distant eyes (we’re supposed to have a nose between them), we see two images from two different positions, and then our brain fusions the two images in one 3D image. With a stereo camera it’s the same. Two shots are taken simultaneously and after, you use a kind of goggles in which you put your slides. When you put your eyes inside the goggles, with a light source behind, and as each eye is looking to one different slide, your brain, again fusions them into one. And it’s absolutely amazing! It makes you feel you’re looking at a motionless reality… Just like a Wachowski effect (or chaweemek’s crazy videos)… It’s not possible to reproduce it on paper or internet, but there’s a way around: you just make an animated gif of the two shots alternatively appearing… It results in a flashing image that kind of reproduces the 3D effect… But it’s definitely not as cool as when you look your slides through the goggles…

And of course, as it is a Holga, you can do all the usual crazy stuff, multiple exposures (with crazy combinations, because you can shoot with one lens covered and the other uncovered…), bulb, color flash and so on… I even tried it with two fisheye adaptors and it works fine… I played also with a flashlight in the dark, and despite the absence of background for visual reference, it is still ok. Note that the 3D effect is more intense if the subject is close.